Montmartre, a hilltop neighborhood, historically a separate village but now part of Paris’s 18th arrondissement, is unlike any other in the city. Montmartre has long been a haven for artists and free spirits. Its artistic heritage and unique atmosphere continue to draw visitors worldwide. From the moment we emerged from the Metro, the morning autumn breeze assured us that it would be an inspiring day. Montmartre felt like a relaxed town within a big bustling city, with a distinct charm and rich history that set it apart from the rest of Paris.
Hanging out in a local cafe early in the morning while waiting for our free walking tour, Montmartre instantly casts its spell. We watched people go about their day as they stopped by bars for caffeine shots and pastries, picked flower arrangements from rustic shops, and bought fresh produce for today’s home-cooked meals. Our little corner offered a glimpse into a typical Parisian morning. We could easily spend hours there, leisurely sipping coffee as we watch the world go by.
Montmartre is about a half-hour metro ride from the center of Paris. Similar to our Versailles Day Trip, we used our Navigo Pass, which gave us unlimited metro rides for our week-long stay. The most up-to-date pricing and information can be found on the official Île-de-France Mobilités website.
Our walking tour started on the Boulevard de Clichy, where the Blanche Metro station is, right before the famous Moulin Rouge. The iconic red windmill instantly catches your gaze between the white stone and brick apartments. The Moulin Rouge (Red Mill), opened in 1889, was named as a nod to Montmartre’s windmills. The cabaret popularized the French Cancan dance, among other performances, attracting diverse crowds. You can still catch a show today, but expect to pay a premium for dinner and a show.
Our tour guide weaved together the history of Montmartre with the stories of the artists who called it home. We learned about their beginnings and the tragedies that often befell them. One of the stops on our tour was to see the apartment with the blue door at 54 Rue Lepic. This was the home of Vincent van Gogh and his brother Theo from 1886 to 1888. While living here, Van Gogh painted scenes of Montmartre and the surrounding areas, capturing the essence of this radiant neighborhood. The vibrant art scene helped him to develop his signature style, characterized by brighter colors and bold brushstrokes. Sadly, his works only became known years after he died by suicide, battling depression at the age of 37.
We then walked along the Rue des Abbesses, surrounded by beautiful apartment buildings and cafes with flower boxes exploding with colors. We took a quick break in front of the Église Saint-Jean de Montmartre, a lovely church with a modern architectural style. Here, we learned about the Wallace Fountains, the elaborate blue drinking fountains scattered throughout Europe. Sir Richard Wallace designed these as a practical and artistic contribution to the city.
This plaza across the street is the location of the Wall of I Love Yous. (Le Mur des Je t’aime). This art installation, created by Frédéric Baron and Claire Kito, is a beautiful and unique expression of love, featuring “I love you” written in hundreds of languages. This work of art has become a meeting place for lovers and, naturally, a crowded selfie spot.
We walked to the back of the park until we reached Place Émile Goudeau, a small square with a rich historical background. This square was a focal point for the bohemian culture that flourished in Montmartre. It was formerly known as Place Ravignan, but it was later renamed to honor the French poet and journalist Émile Goudeau, a key figure in the artistic and literary circles of the late 19th century.
The Bateau-Lavoir, a former piano factory located on Place Émile Goudeau, played a crucial role in the development of modern art. Many influential artists lived and worked in the factory, including Pablo Picasso, who created his groundbreaking work “Les Demoiselles d’Avignon” here. Even today, artists gather here under the shade, skillfully creating beautiful masterpieces, carrying on a tradition that has shaped Montmartre’s identity. They memorialize the beauty of Paris and the people who call it home.
Our next stop was Dalida’s house. She is a French Italian singer and actress who made France her home and became a major star with songs like “Paroles paroles” being a staple of French music, but her life was marred by tragedies, a few of which were lovers who took their own lives.
Up the narrow street, we saw another windmill, the Moulin de la Galette. This was once a popular dance hall, immortalized in paintings by Renoir and other artists. It also has a dark legend associated with its past. During the Franco-Prussian War, the owner, Pierre-Charles Debray, defended the Moulin de la Galette against attackers. Legend has it that he was killed, his body was dismembered and gruesomely displayed on the windmill’s sails. Today, the Moulin de la Galette is a restaurant that still retains its historical charm.
From there, we walked to the bust of Dalida to admire the dome of the Sacre Coeur at the end of Rue de l’Abreuvoir, a picturesque cobblestone street.
On this street, we passed the infamous La Maison Rose (Pink House), a charming restaurant famous for its pink facade and rich connection to Montmartre. It was made famous by its appearance in films and series, including the Netflix series Emily in Paris.
Before heading to the Basilica, our guide took us to the Parc Marcel Bleustein Blanchet just behind it. This is a calmer part of Montmartre that visitors often overlook. In this spot, you can rest amidst the beautiful garden with the towering Sacre Coeur looming in the background.
The free walking tour concluded before the magnificent Sacre Coeur (Sacred Heart) Basilica. It is a Roman Catholic church built in a Romano-Byzantine style. It sits atop Montmartre hill, offering stunning panoramic views of Paris. You can even see the Eiffel Tower from one of the fences. The Sacre Coeur is a magnificent work of art gracing Montmartre’s perfect blue skies. It is as if a skilled artist sketched the cathedral onto a giant blue canvas. The lines and shadows that each corner creates are just incredible to witness.
The queue at the basilica’s steps is for the security checkpoint. Entry to the Sacre Coeur to admire its intricate mosaic interior is free. However, there are areas reserved only for prayers where photography is not permitted. Access to the dome is open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., and entry requires an 8-euro financial contribution.
After our almost 2.5-hour tour, we had a quick lunch. Then, we circled back to the Place du Tertre, a square with a long history as a gathering place for artists. It is a vibrant and bustling spot where artists show their work, capturing the essence of Montmartre. We thought it best to get local Parisian art from the best in town. Artists work in different mediums, so finding a piece that speaks to you wouldn’t be challenging. You can even have one of these talented artists create a caricature or portrait of you and your family.
The streets around Place du Tetre are also filled with souvenir shops for every Paris-themed trinket you wish to take home. If you prefer to people-watch, you could always hang out in one of the cafes and restaurants that surround the beautiful plaza. After grabbing a few things, we climbed back the steps of the Sacre Coeur Basilica to see all of Paris in sunset glow, the perfect conclusion for a tiring but inspiring day.
Trial Retirements are periods we dedicate to traveling to beautiful destinations to know if they are perfect for us when we eventually retire. These times spent away from work will preview our habits and behaviors when we reach Financial Independence, of course, it’s also our way to recharge after months in the grind.
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